Friday, 4 October 2013

Ich bin Fremd hier #2


I spend the day time wandering about the city handing out my CV (Lebenslauf, ‘life-run’, in German) with my big map from the hostel, walking into Irish pubs and English bookshops and other hostels with big maps, often swapping mine for one of theirs when it begins to tear from constant folding and unfolding and stuffing into pockets. I return in the early evenings to the colourful hostel where I make a sparse tomato and cheese salad in the kitchen, and scrounge about the ‘Free Food’ cupboard to see what I find to add some variety. Other backpackers crowd into the kitchen around me, making elaborate meals with herbs and cinnamon sticks and prosting drinks and trying to remember what it was that was said in Amsterdam. People walk around shoeless and wear pyjamas and hoodies sporting ‘Melbourne Rowing Club’.

Unsociably practising German in the mornings I attempt to make up for this in the evenings, joining the card circles and smoking out on the hostel terrace and clinking beers in the ‘chill-out-area’. One evening out on the terrace, during a mass game of Shithead, Sam and Sammy appear from the kitchen. They tell us they have just woken up after getting back from Berghain at 2 o’clock that afternoon. Sam - a cockney Jack-the-lad type who smiles cheekily at everyone and they smile back bashfully and a little dazzled and watch him as he flits about the room, ‘Alroight lad, hows it going, what’s the crack?’ - and his girlfriend Sammy - with long curling hair and big glasses that magnified her eyes, making her look like either a nerdy toddler or old spinster, or a loveable, pretty insect -  a couple fresh from A-level results, who arrived on my third day and took the bunk bed in the corner of the dorm I was in.

They are a kind of sensation in the hostel. The night before, as I look over at Sammy surrounded by a group of girls from Canada, the squat lesbian sitting next to me spits into my ear– ‘they only like her because she is sleeping in the same bed as him!’ And she jerks her head over to Sam who, with a rollie held lazily between his lips, is teaching a group of guys a card game called ‘Jack Spaniels’ Cookie Jar’.

The ripple of anticipation that spread across the terrace when the two appeared bubbles into a flurry of wonder as space is cleared for the drowsy couple and questions are placed before them. I hear little of their answers as the squat lesbian is at my shoulder again: ‘Berghain is nothing. Kit Kat Club is where the real action is. And I’ve heard of one next to that where you can lie in a bath and get pissed on. Shit as well. People save it up during the week and bring it in a lunch box …

I head inside to grab another beer from the fridge and fall onto one of the bright orange sofas. I haven’t been there long when three figures enter the hostel; all heads turn to them as they enter and there is the palpable yet subtle sense that the carefully managed equilibrium of the hostel has been broken. The first one of the three, a tall guy with coiffed hair and little black eyes, whispers something to the receptionist who merely twitches her eyebrows and gives him a bored nod before turning away from him. He leads the two girls behind him towards us, strutting confidently and flashing a great ivory smile. The girl on his right has bright blonde hair, and is dressed all in black, with a black Russian winter hat and furred collar. The second girl is short and square; she has brown hair that falls about her shoulders in great curls and has the eyes of basset hound. She is wearing a tight coat and small like black elf boots that appear to curl up at the edges as if they have been left in an oven, and ivy-coloured tights that complete the look.  Each of them has a shining, laminated card hanging down from their necks.

The leader introduces himself as Leo, working with a company that runs Pub Crawls every night in East Berlin. ‘And we are the only Pub Crawl to do that! We take you partying in the East; and the real Berlin is in the East.’

Common along the backpacker trail, I had a friend who had worked on a Pub Crawl in Rome, before it was shut down when one unfortunate punter fell into the Tiber. They are surprising popular. I remember coming across a Mexican lad in a hostel in Liverpool who had been travelling across Europe and hadn’t gone out except upon on one of these organised pub crawls. This was what he planned to do in Liverpool as well – indeed, it was the thing he was most excited about - and I didn’t want to tell him that I didn’t think there was such a thing there. That is, unless he didn’t mind waiting a couple months to traipse about town with seven people from the University of Liverpool’s English Society dressed as characters from Alice in Wonderland.  

Camp Barry from Cape Cod next to me asks Leo where it starts and he sits himself down next to Barry and taking out a brightly coloured flyer begins pointing towards bars and clubs and pictures of people smiling open mouth into cameras amongst gawdy lettering in bright colours. Stationed behind the flinching Barry was the basset hound who repeated what Leo said in short staccato phrases in a strong Slavic accent. ‘East. The Best. Good time.’ And she slaps Barry on the back. ‘To the East!’

The girl in black sits next to me. She lights a cigarette and stays silent for the next hour, smoking cigarette after cigarette looking bored and pissed off. Leo and the basset hound slink about the hostel.  Leo laughs loudly with the guys and grins at the girls, leaning towards them and bouncing his eyebrows up and down. He is largely received well. Only once I see him approach a fat American at the bar who looked like he’d rather live in a video game, and snaps at Leo shrilly, ‘I said ‘no’ man you’ve already asked me!’ The basset hound slaps both the girls and the guys on the back and drinks a few pints herself and releases war cries and beats down upon the bar, whooping and cheering and grabbing wrists attempting to drag possible crawlers to the exit.

Game as the next foolish punter, I joined Barry and the rest of the motley crew from the hostel – two giggling Swiss sisters, four lads from Manchester wearing shining button up shirts and jeans, three brash girls from Sydney and lolloping Jann from South Africa, who sleeps and snores in the bed next to mine – to follow Leo East. Arriving at the first bar we realised to our surprise that Leo and the two others were mere minnows in comparison to Garth, a great sperm whale of an Aussie who was to be leading the tour that night. As we approach he shouts out, ‘Alright guys! Where are you all from!’ A few of us tentatively call out our home cities and Garth takes us through the night: three bars, one awesome club, free entry, free shots with every drink, litre cocktails, a sheisha with the fifth drink you buy, beer-pong! Flipcup! €12 and unlimited return!

The first bar – the ‘techno lounge’ - was so small that our group almost filled it out, and later it was bursting as catches from other hostels were reeled in.  I get a beer and drink my free shot – neon and weak – and sit down to talk to the Swiss sisters. I ask how long they are in Berlin and when they arrived and what they think and what they do back home; I turn to my other side and I ask a Portugeuse girl the same and she asks me in return. After about three quarters of an hour here we head on.

‘So we are leaving Freidrickhain and heading into Kreuzberg!’ Garth is yelling from the front. ‘We are effectively crossing the border from East Berlin to the West! In this bar, I would highly recommend, the ‘Adios Mother Fucker!’ You will be well and truly - hammerfaced!

A flutter of excited voices rises and falls at this last announcement and we cram into the bar and like school children lining up for lunch we form a queue and obediently each order an ‘Adios Mother Fucker!’ And we sip away in the second bar which looks like a sterile sushi restaurant as the barwoman squeals out: ‘One ‘Adios Mother Fucker’? Four Euros please!’

Into almost empty bars we paraded, led by Garth. Those few already in the bar, sipping a cocktail at the bar or talking quietly in corners, looked up in surprised horror at our arrival. This turned into a disdain mixed with a slight shamefacedness at being caught in such a place themselves. At the third bar I notice that the three that picked us up from the hostel have disappeared and I wonder how long ago they left. There is no time to ponder on this though because Garth is yelling out the rules of flipcup. We shuffle ourselves into teams and give our names gleefully to Garth who yells them out with a hoot of laughter which we appreciate and then we play. It is all laughter and drinking and good fun, except for one quiet girl from Belgium who is unable to flip her cup and this sends her into a hysterical breakdown and she rushes into the bathroom to the sound of the roaring victorious Manc lads who celebrate by downing the unflipped cups of the vanquished Belgiums.

Then onwards to the club which is a blur of Pitball and discolights. At one point I remember seeing Garth bouncing by in the crowd a huge smile on his face as he disappears into the throng. Too many hours later I find myself back at the hostel and bump into Joseph and his girlfriend fresh from Paris.

‘How’s the job hunt going?’ I ask him, leaning up against the door to my dorm.

‘Ah!’ he let out a panted ejuaculation.

‘Job hunt!’ his girlfriend said, turning to him. ‘What? I want to go home!’

‘Yeah … that’s not really happening,’ Joseph says. ‘The whole not speaking German thing …errr … but another time ... How’s it going for you?’

I told them about my fears of Social Security numbers and flats and the refusals and rejections I’ve received so far. ‘I fear that I may be going home too.’

‘Not true!’ the girlfriend shouted out. ‘Where there’s a will there’s a way!’ And she whisked Joseph off and out of sight. I go into my dorm to get a jumper. As I enter angry voices fall silent. It is dark and late so I don’t turn on the light but I can see two figures sitting on their bed in the corner by the window, silent, and waiting until I leave the room.

The terrace is as busy as always. I manage to find a chair squeezed up against two Aussies.

‘The reason I haven’t told you before …’ the smaller one is saying, with his head hanging.

‘Bro, you can tell me anything,’ the big one cuts in.

‘I know, man, I just haven’t because –‘

‘Anything man. You know I won’t judge I’m just here to listen man. Just to support.’

‘Ye, I know, and that’s why-‘

‘But bro don’t say anything you don’t want to say, I don’t need to know anything…’

‘Yeah, I know-‘

‘Only what you’re comfortable with man …’

And this went on for a while until to my surprise – and I believe that of the smaller one – the bigger suddenly burst into tears and fell into the other’s lap. His knees were quivering up against mine and I could hear him mumbling, ‘I’m sorry man, it’s alright, I’m OK …’

And then as quick as he had collapsed his head snapped up and he leapt onto his feet and cried. ‘C’mon! let’s go get fucked!’ And they were off.

Bertie Digby Alexander
Berlin 2013







Ich bin Fremd hier #1


           The city is wet and cold like England but the hostel is warm with sleep and the compound of baggage and bodies everywhere. Heat like this is found in Prague and Amsterdam and Budapest and Romania, but I have arrived in Berlin.

           ‘To go to Berlin was the aspiration of the composer, the journalist, the actor’- this from Peter Gay’s ‘Weimar Culture’, a section of which I read upon my flight from Gatwick - ‘[W]ith its superb orchestras, its hundred and twenty newspapers, its forty theatres, Berlin was the place for the ambitious, the energetic, the talented. Wherever they started, it was in Berlin that they became, and Berlin that made them famous …’[1]

Confident that the energy and opportunities of such a place exists, almost a century on, and through two World Wars and one great wall, I cry out to family and friends: ‘See you all in five years’ time!’ and with my big bag slung over my shoulder - neither the backpackers backpack nor the holiday maker's suitcase – I set off. (I love this bag and smile as I catch a glimpse of myself as I leave my room with it slung around my shoulder in the mirror; a grand thing in faded khaki with strong handles and a weak zip; once my father’s from his army days, I imagine, and later used to ferry spades and cricket bats down to the beach before it was commissioned to hold my laundry at university.) I feel like David Copperfield, Pip, or Oliver Twist, heading towards the Great Metropolis! I am ready to work hard, I say to myself, to have sore feet and hands and fall in to frequenters of houses of skulduggery and ill-repute and scuffle claw and dagger, and in time to triumph, to weep and find love between grubby houses and plush living rooms.

There had been moments of doubt.

I was in Berlin in August, visiting a friend and making a quick reconnoitre. Keen to show off my German I said to her: ‘Was bis du von Beruf? Ich bin arbeitslos!’

‘Oh! Don’t say that. No-one in Berlin wants to hear that!’

The vim with which she referred to this animosity towards the unemployed unnerved me a little. But back in London while I drank and danced with Isherwood and dodged and ducked with le Carré, watched German films and listened to Rammstein, I was certain that Berlin was right for me and I was right for Berlin and I booked my flight and began a little research on employment in the city. Despite all this preparation, when I arrive in Berlin and I see the threatening rain slap against the windows of the plane and I slip on the slabs at Schönefeld Airport and struggle with the ticket machine as a muttering and finger-drumming line grows, and tingling bells are rung furiously at me by aggrieved cyclists, this city truly does appear Dickensian in its size and hostility, and I recognise that I really am falling at its feet and asking, humbly, for a chance.

After the grubby S-Bahn to Ostkreuz and the rickety U1 from Warschauerstaße I eventually find the hostel, and the cold, grimy stairway upwards is as grey as the sky and concrete outside. However on reaching the third floor I am met with a trifle of colour and warmth as I enter reception. With the brightly coloured walls and furniture the place looks like the set of the Tweenies. I am called forward by a soft, lethargic receptionist wearing a trilby and waistcoat, cropped blond hair and crystal blue vacant eyes. Check-in takes a couple of seconds and a signature and I am pointed towards my dormitory. It is quiet inside with the sound of heavy breathing and people rummaging in bags. I try to locate the showers and as I get lost I pass collapsed bodies lolling on sofas, curled up in chairs or propped up against the wall hugging their backpacks. Occasionally one more alive engages one of the fallen in a semi-conscious conversation: ‘Hey, remember … this is where Tim and Andy slept …’ And they dreamily reminisce on the nights before and one tells the other that they are leaving for Prague that day.

I venture out into Kreuzberg. I am told that Kreuzberg was heavy and rough in the 80s and 90s, famous for its cheapness and liberty and May Day riots, and has more of a reputation across German than towns three times its size. Perhaps more than anywhere else in Berlin, Kreuzberg was much cooler fifteen years ago. Most of Berlin I quickly find out was cooler fifteen years ago. I fear that the world of Herr Lehman cannot be found here at all; and that me, like many others, are like the fools who wander around Notting Hill attempting to find the blue door. Kneipes, that I am told can be found on every street corner - an Eckkneipe, I believe - are no more common than hostels and backpacker lounges. The like of me have moved in and destroyed what we seek, though we may convince ourselves - as we walk past graffiti and derelict buildings and smoke indoors – that we are living in the real Kreuzberg.

I don’t think too much about this however as I wander down Oranienstraße, wet and hungry, and into the quiet stalls of Kaisers. I collect a few groceries: cheese, tomatoes, bread, Nescafé Gold Blend. Queuing up at the cashier I notice that there are no plastic bags on offer the other end, but only material ones to buy this end. Though I was not prepared for this it pleased me. Tescos offer an assortment of long-term sturdy material bags at their check-outs as well (though they also still provide the plastic). I fully support the attempt to reduce plastic-bag-wastage and as I am also forgetful, I am now the owner of about twelve of different varieties of Tescos’ material ones, not one of which was with me in Berlin. However I was wearing my big Berlin coat and reckon that I will be able to squeeze most of my basket into the pockets and carry the surplus in my arms.

There was a sweet old lady in front who smiled at me and I smiled back and I smiled more when she carefully counted out her change in her wrinkled palm and transferred pieces one-by-one to the hard and shining hand of the cashier. My smile faltered however as I caught the eyes of the latter who had already been pissed off by the punk customer before who had paid for a couple of sticks of chewing gum with a €20 note, and now was making it clear that she had limited patience for any games I might want to play. I was a little nervous as she aggressively scanned my groceries and sent them tumbling down the other side. When she barked out the price I was certain she had said ‘zwolf Euro sechzig’ and repeated it to make sure but then she screeched something else out that sounded completely different. She began jabbing her finger repeatedly at the flashing numerals on the screen and I took the misguided decision to ignore this, determined to pay as any normal German would.  I kept faith with ‘zwolf Euro sechzig’ and began trailing through notes and coins while she spoke more German at me and everyone’s eyes were on me. It was very embarrassing. Eventually she snatched a €20 note from my hand and dropped the rest back clattering in front of me followed swiftly by my change. I was shuffled on by the next customer in the irritable line as pennies rolled down upon my sad, patient little pile of groceries. I squashed what I could into my pockets and hugging the rest to my chest rushed out into the city, thankful that, as long as they didn’t speak to me, these Germans would assume that I was just as at home here as they.

I tell myself that there is not a moment of time to loose in conquering this language and set down to study as soon as I have labelled and pushed my food into the crowded fridge back at the hostel. This enthusiasm for learning presently stalls, and I think of Mark Twain’s invectives against the language which renders 'turnip' feminine but 'girl' neuter. On top of this I don’t feel books and pens are welcome in this flamingo-fermented environment and push my paper and coloured flashcards further into my lap, attempting to look inconspicuous, and as relaxed as those around me, nonchalantly learning the difference between the demonstrative and dative. After an hour or so I throw it down and tell myself that success lies in practise, not theory, and so approach reception to ask about laundry. She looks a little fearful, almost repulsed listening to my German, but she understands and answers steely in perfect English. 

'Searching for a flat are you?' she asks.

'In time!' I say. Finding work was the first thing on the list. 

She stares at me blankly. I smile at her an leave.

Exhausted I fall upon one of the big bright sofas to read. Around the two coffee tables there were about seven guys, all silent as they tapped away on laptops and tablets. As the evening rolls in another of different stock sits down next to me and begins fidgeting, picking up, turning a few pages and then putting down a magazine in front of him, looking around and drumming on the table and trying to find someone else as unoccupied as him. He has trusting green eyes behind glasses and is pale and lanky, like a stretched frog. He is wearing a woollen jumper with white hairs hopping across dark blue, and wears deep read trousers that hug his slim thighs and collect about his ankles. Putting down my book for a moment to reach for my beer he leapt upon the chance and introduced himself as Joseph from Canterbury. He tells me that he is waiting for his girlfriend to join him in Berlin and together they hope to find work and a flat in Berlin. After I have told him that I am doing the same thing and he asks a few questions he leans towards me and says:

‘Berghain.’ The full-stop is audible. ‘Have you been? I’ve heard it’s incredible.’ I tell him I haven’t been.

One of the tappers speaks up.

‘Berghain.’ He has a Canadian accent. I could hear his full stop as well. He is wearing a baseball cap and doesn’t look up from his screen. ‘Insane.’

Joseph leaned towards him, his eagerness matched in its extremity by the indifference of the other.

‘Tell me.’

‘It can’t be described.’ And he raises his head and looks into Joseph’s eyes.

Joseph waits, certain that it can be. ‘The first time I went, the first thing I saw when I got in was this man, completely naked, lying on a table about the size of these here, just jacking off. A coffee table just like this.’ His eyes narrow slightly at Joseph. ‘If you think you’re going to be weirded out by such things you’re not going to get in.’

Joseph let out a jocular laugh and bounced on the sofa. ‘So you didn’t get turned away!’

‘I did at first,’ the Candian says quietly, and looks down at his screen. ‘But the feeling you get when you have got in, when the door has been opened and you walk in and go through the drug check, and you pay, and the cloak room, and you can already hear the music and know that behind those doors are thousands of sweating dancing bodies …. Of course Berghain isn't the only place in this city worth going to.’

He goes on to tell us about ‘The Labyrinth’ which isn’t a club but a place inside a club. Here you find a particular man and say a couple of selected words as you hand him a €10 and he takes you to ‘The Labyrinth’, where you are blindfolded then left amongst tunnels and ropes and cracks in walls to make your way out. Like Saw, but you pay for this with money as oppose to blood. And of course you are drinking.

‘It took me forty-five minutes to get out.’

I wasn’t sure if this was slow or fast or particularly impressive either way so just nodded silently with a thoughtful, understanding expression.

‘Best thing I’ve ever done.’

Joseph turns to me. ‘I’m hoping to head out tonight, but I wasn’t sure where-’

‘Too late for The Labyrinth mate,’ the Canadian says ‘You want to get there early. Six or seven.’

I am meeting my friend that evening to celebrate my arrival in the city, and so have leave Joseph twitching in the lounge as the Canadian gives up more sage advice on going out in Berlin.

My friend is late, so instead of pacing in front of the church I enter a bar that I spotted the other side of the road as I left the hostel. I am greeted not by a large and balding landlord behind the counter with a square cigar poking out of his mouth, but instead a small bar girl with piercings in both eyebrows below a woolly black hat and thick dark jumper. She has a pale, pointed face, like a shrewd snow fox and when I enter is drinking a herbal tea from a glass mug and smoking a cigarette.

‘Kann ich eine Bier haben, bitte?’

I like her straight away and believe she likes me too. She starts jabbering away about the largers she has. I stutter out, ‘Was emphelen Sie?’ and to my joy she starts tapping on one nodding her head and speaking German words I don’t know. ‘Super! Diese hier bitte!’

            Buoyed on my successful German I rolled and lit a cigarette and, when my friend text me to say she would be later still, I ordered another beer - ‘noch eines, bitte’, which she understood – and when I began rolling another cigarette and realised I had no filters she passed the packet of hers and her lighter and I lit it and thanked her and thought, fuck fifteen years ago, this is like Herr Lehmann right now. I do belong here, and say to myself, Ich bin Berliner! and smile in the knowledge that I will never make JFK’s mistake, and think this sprawling town can be mine, this stone and paint and flesh, these streets and circles, these walls and smoky Kneipes. In time.

         ‘Noch eines, bitte.’

Bertie Digby Alexander
Berlin 2013





[1] Peter Gay, ‘Weimar Culture: The Outside as Insider’, (1969), Great Britain, Secker and Warbung.


Monday, 29 July 2013

Teatro di Nascosto’s ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’

Since she was a teenager Annet Henneman has been involved in theatre, and it was theatre that took her away from her native Holland to Poland, Germany and finally Italy where she was to settle for a while, acting, working, learning. Here Annet spent much time with theatre practitioners training her body and mind to bring the essence of what she was attempting to portray to the stage with as little artifice and contrivance as possible. Annet’s eclectic work often led her to working closely with those of the city or town she was living in; teaching, performing and directing in a variety of places including schools and prisons. When Annet set up Teatro di Nascosto or ‘Hidden Theatre’ her work was to spring from the local to the global.

Teatro di Nascosto practise theatre reportage, focusing on personal stories of those unable to speak out themselves. Although Annet’s work contains the love and celebration of family and country, the joy and dancing and music of beloved cultures, her productions often look at human rights abuses; the injustice, cruelty and oppression in the world. Annet’s actors aim to bring their audience close up against a reality that is too often avoided. Annet attempts to convey the fear and grief to her audience and them to, just for a moment, ‘live and see how it could be your lover, your fiancé, your mother, your daughter who is in this prison, or could die in that war or could be on a boat and is not knowing if they will make it alive to Europe.’
 
The drama of Teatro di Nascosto does not lie in the same vein as the established form of theatre of the West. It has not been sanded down but keeps its rough edges and raw intimacy, breaking down the fourth wall in the theatre that separates and protects audience from performer. Some of the practices and techniques of Annet’s work derive from the ideas of the theatre practitioner Jerzy Grotowski whom she worked with in Italy in his Theatre of Sources. Grotowski’s theatre is strenuous and exhausting, actors joining not to supplement their theatrical toolbox but to give everything to the company, baring themselves naked to the theatre. They are to, his Statement of Principles reads, discard half measures for the sake or revealing and opening up, emerging from themselves as opposed to closing up. There is no distortion through the camera lens or disguise in the costume wardrobe. Grotowski’s actors aim for the raw truth and strive relentlessly to capture it.  

Through her work in theatre Annet was never far from the raw truth, often working with those side-lined in society, or those, for whatever reason, whose voices were stifled. Annet trained as a drama teacher at the Academy of Expression and Communication in Holland and later worked as a theatre therapist for two years at the psychiatry centre, Dercksen Centrum, also in Holland. Outside of this she continued as a freelance drama teacher working with young offenders and maladjusted children in cultural centres and primary schools. In 1987 she co-founded the cultural association ‘Carte Blanche’ in Italy with Armando Punzo whose work with the prisoners of high-security prisons still continues with the ‘Compagnia della Fortezza’ which takes theatre into prisons, schools and theatres inside and outside of Italy.

It was in 1997 when she was running her own theatre group that Annet noticed things around her changing; at least, she noticed her relation to them had altered. Her perception of the world had shifted and she found herself waking up in the morning in tears. A friend of hers was dying of bone cancer; there had been a huge earthquake in Guatemala; boatloads of Kurds were arriving in Italy after fleeing oppression in Turkey … these things rose up in front of Annet and her current project shrunk into insignificance and triviality. 
She was certain that she had to go and discover the stories of these people and then tell them to others; to give them a voice. She wanted to inform people of the atrocities across the globe that are so often shrugged off when squeezed between the latest ‘-gate’ and the FA Cup. She wanted to walk towards these people and listen to them, bringing what she found back to her stage, a pulsing alternative to the television and newspapers. In essence, Annet wanted to make what she now calls ‘theatre reportage’.

Annet announced her idea to her theatre group, telling them she was to go and meet the Kurds landing on the beach and ask them why they were coming to Italy; then she wanted to go to Turkey, and find out why they were leaving. She asked them to come along with her. One of the actors asked where they would sleep.

‘I don’t know, the beach.’ Annet replied.

But what would they do there?

‘I don’t know. We go and then we see!’

And so they did.

Annet went to that beach and spoke to the Kurdish refugees from Turkey. After that, as she said she would, she went to Turkey and, travelling sometimes hidden in a car, met with various Kurdistan organisations including teachers unions and the People’s Democracy Party, HADEP. All the time under the watch of the police and state authorities, she went to meet and spend time with some of the refugees from the villages that had been razed by the Turkish military. 

Since then she hasn’t stopped; travelling to Iran, Iraq, Jordan, Palestine, Kurdistan and India; following the people to the tears, the cries, the laughs; down crumbling streets and into smoky rooms Annet feels the dust and debris, hears the explosions and sees the pain.

‘I can’t stand injustice,’ she says, ‘and that is from when I was very little. The more I see and the more I know, the less I can stand it.’ Annet goes to listen to the stories of oppression and torment to return home to an audience; bringing that world, to ours.

The request of an Iranian in the summer of 2010 led to Annet’s production ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’. 

Specifically, the project was to look at the aftermath of the 2009 presidential elections in Iran. Teatro di Nascosto spent time with various Iranians who had been involved, listening to their memories of the time and working towards an exploration of these stories to be performed at SOAS University on the 23rd of July 2011. 

Though many people in Britain will have some recollection of the 2009 elections in Iran and the protests that followed, with the rapid rise of instant news from a global and increasingly laymen media, a culture of world narratives that sink from our conscience as they fall off the news reel has evolved as ensuing developments are left unrecorded. Repercussions and solutions are neglected and the perception of the world becomes warped as minds begin to process the beginnings of the next crisis without regard to any resolution to its predecessor. This is true for stories such as the Expenses Scandal and ‘Hackgate’ as well as events such as the Arab Spring and the 2011 famine in Somalia.

In addition to this, people talk of ‘disaster fatigue’ where a comfortable public tires of hearing of the next crisis; when one story simply morphs into the next. Our skins harden and one more tragedy is just one more article for tomorrow’s waste paper bin. One more explosion, one more picture …

‘I saw how difficult it is for people - and myself before I started to travel - to feel and know what is happening to people so far away from us,’ Annet says. ‘Now if you see it on the television and they tell you that last week in Baghdad eighty people died because there were bombs, we don’t’ feel anything, it’s so distanced.’ In such a climate the work of Teatro di Nascosto is that much more challenging and that much more important.

The theatre group doesn’t claim to have the solutions to these issues and is not out to simply shock anaesthetised living-rooms. They do not work with a political agenda and are not a call to arms. Their primary objective is to make us acknowledge what is continuing to happen in these countries; to give comfort to those undergoing oppression and abuse that people in other countries are listening to what is happening; to tell the stories that are not being told, but are being re-enacted every day; to ensure that we remain aware and conscious.

To the Iranians that the actors meet, to those who have undergone torture and abuse and lived in a continuous state of fear and apprehension, the knowledge that there are others far away hearing their story is a comfort. That is all and that is everything.

I was to accompany the group for the week leading up to ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’, July 2011, helping them promote the performance and in doing so discover what exactly they do and see how they prepare for it. Having never met Annet before but having heard much of her work, I travelled across London to join them with unexpected and - most-likely - discernible apprehension. I had been informed that Annet loved people coming to her rehearsals as long as they complied with her one condition – there is to be no observation, only participation. With this stipulation and Grotowski’s Statement of Principles buzzing around my head my heart began to thump as I arrived. 

I received a warm welcome from Annet and her team who were dressed in their own clothes; bright and loose and slightly Middle Eastern looking and so apart from the buzzing lap tops and piles of paper and books I could have looked as if I was entering a session of Yoga or Chi-gong. They were collected in a small and underground room at the London School of Economics which served as both their headquarters and rehearsal space.

Despite the research I had done on the group before arriving and their smiling faces I still felt wholly vulnerable to the theatre that I was entering into and nervous that I would make a fool of myself and in doing so insult the integrity of the work being done. But I was there now, so with these thoughts in mind I took off my shoes and joined the circle.

*

The presidential elections in Iran, June 2009, were at the time described in the UK by The Daily Telegraph as being ‘unusually open by Iranian standards though highly acrimonious.’ There were three candidates running against the incumbent president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad, an ultra-conservative who had been elected in 2005. The son of a blacksmith, Ahmadinejad presented himself as a humble man of the people vowing to stand up to the West. He had strong support from not only the rural population and working classes but also the state police, army and media. From the start it was apparent that he would be hard to beat.

Ahmadinejad’s most popular opponent was Mir-Hossein Mousavi, Iran’s Prime Minister from 1981 – 89 and a presidential advisor from 1989 – 2005. Mousavi, whose support primarily came from the upper and middle classes, adopted the campaign slogan ‘Together for Change’ and appeared to present to the world a chance that Iran would change direction on the world stage. He supported releasing the state’s control of the media and opening up constructive dialogue with the United States of America, pledging to combat the extremist image of Iran abroad. Mousavi adopted for his campaign the traditional Iranian colour green. This was to later become synonymous in Iran with the struggle for social freedom and change; the so called ‘Green Movement’.

The other two candidates were Mohsen Rezai, a self-proclaimed critic of Ahmadinejad and former leader of the Revolutionary Guards; and Medhi Karroubi, who had come 3rd in the presidential elections of 2005 and afterwards accused them of being riddled with corruption. 

On the 13th of June it was announced that Ahmadinejad had won the election by almost two thirds of the national vote; Mousavi received just over one third. These results were doubted in the West by the United States and the EU but were met without objection from China, Russia, India and Brazil.

Mousavi, joined by Rezai and Karroubi, labelled the outcome a ‘charade’ and rejected the results. With many Iranians feeling the same way, the country was to see its biggest civil unrest since the 1979 Revolution. Though the demonstrations began peacefully, clashes eventually broke out between the police and protesters which were to escalate. As the latter smashed windows, tore down signs and lit fires outside Ministry buildings in Tehran, the state police fought with batons, pepper spray, tear gas and at times, firearms. On the third day of the protests a pro-Ahmadinejad march formed shouting ‘Death to America’ and ‘Death to Israel.’

The government was to later announce thirty protester fatalities though opposition supporters calculated the number to be twice as high. Thousands were arrested and since then stories have emerged of many being put under torture and forced to sign false confessions to be traitors to the state.

On the one year anniversary of the election, Mousavi made a statement against the regime demanding that ‘a fair trial of those who committed the election fraud, tortured and killed protesters, must be held.’ He called on the political prisoners of June 2009 to be released and the end of police involvement in politics.  He asked his supporters not to take to the streets so as to avoid bloodshed, and by and large there was little conflict. 

The regime had warned the public that and protesters would be charged as criminals if they protested or held contact with foreign media.  

Iranians who have met with Teatro di Nascosto in the preparations for ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ project describe Iran to be a country of phone tapping and spying, secret police and night time abductions. They say that this state of surveillance reaches beyond Iran to the United States and Europe, where Iranian nationals are watched and followed as they study and travel abroad. Some have been detained on arrival in Tehran due to acrimonious pictures on Facebook or the people they have socialised with when abroad.

Annet has been to Iran a couple of times creating performances and actions centred around Iranian women. In a ‘period of hope’, Annet was asked by a friend of hers who was a journalist to tell the stories of the people of the 'Green Movement.’ Since making this request, this friend was never to make contact again, whether by choice or not. In making ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ Annet and her team were in contact with a number of Iranians, listening to their stories and building up relationships in the process. In many cases it is highly dangerous for these Iranians themselves and their families back home for them to be associated with Teatro di Nascosto. Yet there have still been some who have worked with the group and are likely to continue doing so in the future. Some of the Iranians approached will decline involvement to the extent of refusing to attend the performances, despite expressing support for the work being done. Fear of government spies tracking their movements is widespread; the fear of their passport being taken by the government when they return to Iran, or for reprisals on their family that are still there. Annet is also aware that some of the Iranians pledging their support for Teatro di Nascosto are affiliated with the regime themselves.

*

Annet had five young actors working with her on ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ each of whom had become involved with Teatro di Nascosto in a different way. Valentina for instance, an Italian, had found out about Annet and her work when studying Anthropology at the University of Cambridge. She travelled to Sardinia to work with Annet on a performance there and to gather research for her thesis on theatre reportage and social anthropology. Valentina’s boyfriend Pascal, half-English, half-French, had always held an interest in theatre and joined Teatro di Nascosto through her. Pascal’s first performance with Annet was part of the ‘Still Human Still Here’ campaign in London, organised by STAR and Amnesty International. This performance took the shape of a twenty minute improvisation on homeless immigrants in Britain, after which the group spent the night in sleeping bags on the ground outside St Paul’s Church in Covent Garden.

Like Pascal, Arabella’s first performance with the group was the improvisation on the homeless. A graduate from Oxford University, Arabella first heard of Teatro di Nascosto when employed in a café there. A colleague of Arabella’s had previously worked with the group teaching English to some of the refugees involved. She described it to Arabella as the most daring and effective social/political theatre she had ever seen. Intrigued, Arabella got in touch with Annet and has been working with her ever since. Valeriy, a Ukrainian student at London School of Economics heard about the group through the Drama Society there. ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ was his second project with the group, having also been involved in ‘Still Human Still Here’. There was also Guendalina, a friend of Annet’s from Volterra, for whom ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ was to be her first production with Teatro di Nascosto.

But I didn’t know any of this when I first arrived and there was no time for comprehensive introductions as I joined the circle of this merry band of thespians; shoes and jumpers began to fly off in all directions and the group prepared to warm up. Shoes off I hastened to empty my pockets and make my stance and expression appear as keen and prepared as possible; I didn’t want any hesitation to be misconstrued as reluctance. Led by Annet we began to warm up, beginning by slightly extending our necks working up to attempting to straddle the floor and I began to feel a little ridiculous in my corduroys and stiff shirt.

Warm-up smoothly slipped into rehearsal as Annet softly announced, ‘Now, dance,’ and clicked the music into life with a few taps of the computer. ‘You use the actions and movements we have just made, and make them into a dance!’ she told us as she began dancing on the spot with grace.  Following her example, the six of us began extending our own arms, legs and necks as we had done before, now in rhythm and flow with the music.

This is an essential and integral part of the success of Teatro di Nascosto’s work. The group strive towards accuracy and honesty in each of their productions so to attain the greatest integrity possible. The audience has to feel assured that what they are seeing is close to the truth and the actors have to feel as immersed in that truth as possible if they hope to succeed in making the audience feel. This means that the technical side of their performances has to be mastered before they can hope to portray the emotional. Annet describes the actors’ bodies and voices as their tools by which to display their stories with as much force and truth as possible, and it is in exploring and training these that they begin.

As with the dancing, knowing the words and their meaning of each Iranian song is integral to its subsequent power on the stage. ‘I have to know what the songs are about,’ Annet says. ‘I choose them for precise reasons; I have to learn them very well. It takes me sometimes half a year before I know the text and melody of a song well enough to stand in front of the audience and not only to give my speaking and singing but a song also filled up with the emotions. But first I’m learning it technically. I have to remember it.’
Thus the strenuous technical and intellectual aspect to their drama is fundamental grounding to each production. The Persian dancing was very much part of the rehearsal and not the warm-up, as much the Arabic or Farsi they practised weren’t only loosening the vocal cords, or an attempt to simply mimic. Instead it is an attempt to reflect, and if possible, reproduce, the rhythms and melody of a culture. 

‘Slow,’ Annet called out into the rehearsal after a few full minutes of dancing. We slowed our dancing as Annet softly called ‘slower … slower …’ and continued until we were each barely moving, our figures falling into statue, before we were called to ‘slowly … slowly …’ sink to the ground.

There was no more music and Annet came to join us. We had formed another circle on the floor. She turned to Valentina and said, ‘Valentina, tell us about 'N's story.’ We all looked towards Valentina as she spoke as if we were sitting around a campfire sharing memories, or listening to a story at the end of the day at school.
Valentina began by telling us about when ‘N’ was little in Iran. How Ramadan was her favourite time of the year, the time she looks forward to most. She told us how she would set her alarm in the morning earlier than the rest of her family, on the first night, so she could creep down and see the Suhoor - the meal before dawn - being prepared. She told us how she would wrap her dressing gown tight around her as she stepped outside into the cold morning and hopped down the path to the outer building where all the family would later come together to eat. Whenever Valentina stopped Annet would urge her to tell us more, to give us more details: What did you hear? What did you see? What did you feel?

So Valentina went on. She said how she would peek through the window into the darkness and attempt to catch a glimpse of the food inside. She told us how she remembers the exact feeling that the little cool pebbles made on her feet as she scuttled over them; the sounds of the insects and the trees on those dark mornings. Valentina said how she remembered that as she was so eager to get there before her family, once she was there, she was equally as keen that they would hurry and join her in the excitement and celebrate the beginning of the festival. She remembered one year in particular when her and her family had been living in the north of Iran, in a holiday house that they had usually only used in the summer, but had been forced up there due to the war with Iraq. She had loved it there, she chuckled, though her sister had hated it as she had to attend an overcrowded school, struggling to learn in a class of eighty children.

When Valentina stopped now Annet did not ask for more but turned and nodded to Valeriy, who was to tell the next story. He told about a father, whose children would always remember habitually nursing the wounds on his back when he returned home from yet another demonstration against the regime. Growing up through those experiences it is perhaps not surprising, Valeriy said, that he and his brothers were out protesting against the regime in 2006.

One evening, after getting home safely, Valeriy’s grandmother was to open the door to a group of men asking for him; they were secret police out of uniform. His grandmother, unaware of their true intent directed the men up to her grandson’s bedroom. When he saw the men coming down the corridor he guessed who they were and rushed to lock the door, hoping to climb out the window and escape through his neighbours’ garden but the men crashed through the door before he had time to lock it. 

He was taken to an underground secret prison where he was handcuffed and told to stand on a tile of about a foot squared. He was told that he couldn’t step off the tile as they began to beat him with their fists. He remembered with a laugh how at first he had tried to protect his face with his hands which meant that one guard’s fist crashed into the hard metal of the handcuffs and not his face. Of course this infuriated the guards inciting them to take out batons and hit him with those instead. They beat him for hours. The next day he was taken to an above ground prison where he was given food and permitted to smoke. Here he stayed for a few days before being released.

Along with one of his brothers he is now in England attempting to secure a long-term visa. He can no longer return to Iran, fearing fatal consequences for himself and his family, and even in England has to be careful about what he does and who he speaks to. Back in Iran, as he cannot be with them, they will always place a photo of him at his usual seat around the dining table on special occasions.

His story drew to a close and when he had finished no one said anything for a few moments until the girl next to me took a loud breath in and said, ‘I was never part of the protest. I was aware of it, of course, everyone was, but I was never part of it. All I had done was vote for Mousavi – and that vote wasn’t even counted.’ She wasn’t looking at us but up at the corner of the room breathing loudly and keeping her eyes fixed on the same point; she tilted her head up a little as she carried on speaking.

‘I was returning from university when I was grabbed by two men and thrown in the back of a van. In here 
there were several other women. They looked at me but said nothing. Some of them were crying or looked as if they had just stopped crying. But they didn’t say anything to me. There was one guard in there with us. A boy, just a boy a few years younger than me.  I remember he came up in the van and began putting his hands everywhere; waist, stomach, legs, breasts. His upper lip was moist with sweat and the bristles of his moustache coarse. We were taken to a kind of warehouse. Here the guards presented us with papers to sign. I saw the seal of the regime at the top corner. We were forced to sign these documents professing that we had demonstrated against Ahmadinejad, that we were enemies of the state, that we were terrorists. I didn’t even have a pair of nail clippers in my bag – just pens and a few books. We were blindfolded and separated. I remember the boy who had groped me in the van put me in his line. Taken to a cell, they grabbed my hair and shaved it all off, all the time their hands all over me.

‘Left alone, not after long I heard the clacking of a man’s boots walking towards the cell. He came inside and shouted at me, ‘You were demonstrating weren’t you? You want to bring down the government?’

‘I told him I wasn’t at the demonstration, that I was just a student. For this I received a kick in the stomach. I remember the shock of the blow more than anything else. I found myself on the floor as the pain spread up to my chest and down to my groin. I gasped empty air writhing on my back – unsure what had happened. I could taste blood in my mouth.

‘The next thing I remember was the guard shouting again. ‘Get up. Get up now, faster!’ I staggered up.
‘’You are not student! From now on, do not say you are a student. Only speak when I say something to you.’

‘He didn’t say anything for a while. Just stood there. There was the click of a lighter and the smell of smoke drifted over to me.

‘He came closer, ‘Why were you at the demonstration?’ I said nothing, it was of no use. Then suddenly I screamed, feeling a searing pain on my hand. I felt the burn of the cigarette go right to my bone. I heard him light another. ‘Why were you at the demonstration? he asked again. He didn’t wait for a reply as I felt the burn of a second cigarette on my cheek. He kept doing this, marking my body all over with his cigarettes.’  

The girl went silent. When she began again, she spoke slower, her words falling from her mouth heavy. ‘I was curled up on the floor. He rolled me over on to my back and sat on my legs. He lent forward and his sticky breath on my face. He stayed in that position for a while, until I felt his tongue on my cheek and let out a little cry. He got up and I heard him open up his trousers. He pulled mine down as I writhed to get away. He held me down and when it began I just lay paralysed on the floor. When it was over he finished off by urinating on me. I remember the acidic smell still.

‘Another guard came in. ‘You have a boyfriend?’ He asked. I didn’t. I stayed silent. ‘You have a boyfriend – when you came in here we see you must have a boyfriend. Or what? What are you a prostitute? How many men have you slept with? What whore-house have you come from?’ And this went on.

‘I had never been with a man but he kept calling me a whore, again and over again. It was to happen so much that I got infected. My uterus began to smell and had little bumps on it. It was never treated.’
The girl as she continued to stare at the ceiling. Her eyes had teared and her cheeks were red. Her whole body was rigid and her hands clasped themselves in tight balls on her knees, as her body contracted. Occasionally she raised a brittle hand to brush back a stray hair in a jerking jarring movement, knocking her fingers against her face and bumping back down to her knees. Apart from this she was fixed in that posture as if she had been sat like that since that day she left the prison up until the moment she sat before us now.  

‘After about three days I was taken to a detention centre. I wasn’t there long. They got in touch with my father and told him what I was accused of, and what I had admitted to. And he came to pick me up and drove me home.’ She stopped now and didn’t speak again. After only a few moments the shouting began.

‘Get up. Get up now, faster!’ The two boys were on their feet and shouting at us. We begin to stumble up but one of the girls is taking too long. I see her grabbed by the arm by one of them and thrown towards the wall.

‘Up!’ they continue to shout over and over. ‘Get up and stand against the wall!’ We do as we are told and stand next to the girl who was too slow. There are five of us there but then one of us has been grabbed and is out in front with the two guards. ‘Stay there!’ One of them shouts.  

The woman is kneeling down in front of us and the second guard is leaning down and pushing his face up to hers. She stares at the floor her arms hanging straight down and her white hands trembling.

‘Tell me why you were at the demonstration?’ the guard asks her. There is no response.

‘Tell me why you were at the demonstration!’ he screams at her.
                
There is still no answer from the woman but her lips have begun to move up and down forming silent words.

‘What are you saying?’
               
Her mute response continues.
                
‘Why were you at the demonstration?’ he asks again as she continues to mumble.

‘Get up,’ the second guard says to her and pulls her up by the arm.  She stumbles up; her eyes still down on the ground and her lips moving faster over her murmuring.
                
‘Run.’ One of them says. ‘Run to that wall.’
                
She begins a slow jog to the wall, feet scuffling along the floor.
                
‘Faster.’
                
She moves faster and now her mutterings can just be heard.
                
‘-motherfuckermotherfuckermotherfuckermotherfucker …’
                
‘Faster.’ And her stiff body stumbles faster back and forth across the room, her breath is laboured and the ‘motherfuckers’ coming broken and stilted. But she is still not going faster enough, not fast at all. One of the guards makes to chase her and her body breaks forward towards the wall and back and again and towards the wall and back – and this goes on, her breathing becomes heavier and raspier and her face turns red as we watch.
                
‘-motherfucker… motherfucker ... motherfucker … motherfucker …’ has mostly sunk underneath the noise of the breathing and panting as the woman runs back and forward.

‘Stop.’ She stops.
                
‘Sit down.’
                
‘Stand up.’

‘Sit down.’ 

The woman obeys each command.

‘Roll over.’

‘Again.’

‘Get up. Faster!’

‘Run.’ Not once does she look at the guards but the mutterings gain confidence again as her lips move over the words once more.

‘Now stop. Sit down.’ One of the guards goes up to her face, his pale against hers bloodshot. ‘Why were you at the demonstration!’

‘Motherfucker!’ She screams back followed by a dart of spit. He wipes his face and spits back in her face. 

He grabs her wrists and begins slapping her with it. 

‘Slap yourself.’ He commands her. ‘Slap yourself, harder, faster.’ I can hear one of the girls next to me quietly crying as another puts a tentative step forward towards the woman. One hand is slightly raised and her eyes are wide and fixed on her as she sits on the ground, legs sprawled, slapping herself in the face.  I don’t move even to turn my head or adjust my gaze.

The woman is dragged on to her feet again.

‘Sing!’ she is commanded. Her mumblings become a tuneless string of loud ‘motherfuckers’.

‘A nursery rhyme. Sing a nursery rhyme!’ And she sings a nursery rhyme as they tell her to do star jumps on the spot and to smile while doing it.

She is left there and their faces turn to us. We are now with her doing star jumps on the spot, all five of us, are singing and smiling and jumping. Our legs and arms are springing to the walls of the room as the guards watch us, unsmiling.
                
We are now running back and forth, like she was. Running to the end of the room and then turning and running back to the other hand. Back and forth between the walls. We keep running until my breath becomes haggard and mouth begins to dry up. There is pain in my legs and in my shoulders and a stitch begins to form just under my heart. There is screaming around me as I run back and forth.
                
I am being told to stop and am in a corner with one of the guards. He spits into my face. He is asking me something but I ignore him as I try to regain my breath. I want to double up or sit down but he is in my face and saying something again.
                
‘Why were you at the demonstration?’ I begin something unintelligible to even myself.
                
‘Why were you at the demonstration?’ I don’t know what to answer him so mutter, ‘I wasn’t there, I didn’t go …'
                
‘Look at me!’ and I look at him. ‘Who were you with?’

‘No-one. I wasn’t with anyone, I wasn’t there …’

‘Was she there with you?’ He points behind him but I don’t see who he’s pointing at and so simply shake my head. The stitch in my chest has got worse since I stopped running and I began to sink to the floor but he drags me up. 

‘What about if I go over and see your sister? What do you say then?’

I don’t answer this, thinking about my sister.

‘Would you like me to go and see your sister?’ I think of my sister and I think of the guard and try to answer the question but only manage, again, ‘I wasn’t with anyone, I wasn’t there.’

He picks up my hand and begins to slap me with it. 

‘Slap yourself.’ I do this; it’s unnatural and I feel like a fool. My cheek is hot and quickly starts to sting. 

‘Faster. Faster!’ It then begins to go numb. The guard watches me do this and I carry on answering. At one moment I point at someone and at one moment I stop slapping myself and he spits in my face again. 

And then in another moment, music is blasting out through the speakers: ‘Now slow …. slow…!’

My cheek is burning and my ears are watering with the pain. My arm aches too as well as my legs and feet. I drop to the floor breathless as I see a scene of the others rising and moving gracefully, stretching and swaying and tiptoeing across the floor. Their arms, and legs and necks are extending out to each far window and door of the room. In my corner I stumble up to join them. I see Valeriy next to me, eyes focused on some indefinite point in the distance, his fingers no longer around my wrist but spinning in slow-motion in the air. Thoughts of my sister and the guards and that damn demonstration ebb and fade as I hear the music and with them extend my arms upwards and out.


*

Iran has been an Islamic State since the Safavid dynasty beginning at the start of the 16th Century. However when Reza Khan took over the country in 1925, the Western-looking Shah began to push back longstanding Muslim social conventions. Traditional Islamic clothing was banned and the separation of the sexes ended, these policies being implemented by force. In 1935 dozens were killed when the Shah brutally putdown a riot of traditional Shi’ites. All opposition was crushed and other political parties were banned. Due to his support of the Axis Alliance in WWII he lost the support of many in the West and Anglo-Russian occupation led to his removal in 1941. His son, Reza Pahlavi, later took his place. 

Shah Pahlavi was abhorred by much of the country as he began to follow in his father’s footsteps. In 1963 he launched his ‘White Revolution’, a radical reform and modernisation (what was seen as simply ‘Westernisation’ to many) of the land, social and economic structure. The oil boom in the 1970s failed to bring prosperity to much of the country but instead drastically widened the gap between the rich and the poor. It soon became clear to many that the states wealth was becoming increasingly synonymous with that of the Shah.

Vocal activists against the Shah’s reign such as Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini were exiled from the country. Khomeini continued criticising the Shah from abroad and after the 1979 Revolution, when the Shah fled to the USA, he returned to Iran with a hero’s welcome. After a referendum, the Government of National Unity was created with Khomeini elected as Supreme Leader in December of that year. This government, it was announced, was to be based on Sharia Law. It was proclaimed as ‘God’s Government’, therefore any opposition to it would be an opposition to Islam and to God.

Nearly twenty years after the revolution, Iran appeared to the world to be heading in a moderate direction under the presidency of Mohammad Khatami who was relatively liberal. Khatami appeared to believe in freedom of expression, tolerance, a civil society, building constructive and diplomatic relationships with Western countries and other Asian states and a free market which allowed room for foreign investment. Khatami however did not turn Iran into a more liberal state. In 1999, the closure of the reformist newspaper ‘Salam’ led to student protests in Tehran. A year later 16 more newspapers were banned. It was in 2002, under Khatami’s presidency, that President George W Bush of the United States was to label Iran part of the ‘axis of evil’, alongside Iraq and North Korea. In 2005 Iran elected the conservative Ahmadinejad as president.

Due to its nuclear programme and controversial positions on world affairs, under Ahmadinejad’s Iran is certainly not returning to the role of America’s lap dog. Instead Iran is striding through the world stage causing increasing concern and anxiety for its fellow players. For many Iran is just Ahmadinejad, plutonium, funded terrorism ... Not to many is it simply the people. But it is rarely simple.  

*

I only rehearsed with Teatro di Nascosto that one day, though I popped in to see the group a couple of times after that to help with their research and promotions before that weekend’s performance. On the tube journey back from that rehearsal however, and after that still, I thought about it all. I thought about the questioning I was put under and my response, in particular when he brought up my supposed sister. I do have a sister and would like to think that I would endure a lot of pain and hardship before I allowed her to be raped. During the rehearsal, in response to the rape taunts, I had pointed at one of the other girls to direct attention away from me and I wondered later whether that was something the actors often did; betray another for their self-preservation. Surely there must at least consider it, each time. I was to learn later on it is not really about playing a role, constructing character or making decisions. It is about feeling a certain way and confronting the prospect of having to make such choices in the first place.

For Annet, who has been to these places and both seen the aftermath and experienced the pain of the violence that haunts these countries, it is very different. I thought of her stubborn ‘motherfuckers’. Is she always resilient and brave or does she sometimes display timidity or quiet despair? Would that make the performance more of less powerful? I asked Annet about the difference between playing a role and acting as a medium, and how much the artifice of theatre and acting sabotages the quest for bare emotional truth.
‘It is a whole mixture. You saw us training – you should be a good actress, my whole body should be ready, my voice, everything; if I don’t train them I cannot be a medium. If I don’t know how to free my emotions you will see a blocked person in front of you who simply tells very harsh stories. If I would be a musician, I would train my fingers my hands, to play the piano, and the moment I give the concert I should forget all the techniques. I should feel all what I have trained, so I know the piece I have to play, but it should be filled up with feelings - that people can be taken by the music. So in the theatre, my body my voice is my instrument. In acting you learn how to open up, everything should be trained.’

As a piece of drama, Annet of course recognises that their performances are full of theatricality in a way that, for instance, a news report is not. ‘It is theatre because we change the rules of the reality of that moment. We say ‘Oh, we are now in a prison in Iran, or in a demonstration in Tehran.’ So we make new rules, a new behaviour that is not our daily behaviour. But because I have been traveling, because I have friends that were in prison or have died or disappeared. Because I went to a funeral – funerals - of people who died in bomb attacks. Because I lived in Baghdad and heard the bombs, because I have slowly a family … of course what I tell becomes a mixture of their story and my experiences.’

Such an answer took me back to Grotowski and what he called the ‘double game of intellect and instinct.’ Annet says, ‘If I would intellectually tell how many refugees there are and what they suffer you don’t get involved emotionally. But if I make you involved in the stories of some individual people and after I tell you ‘there are about 20 000 000 refugees’ – this 20 000 000 suddenly has a feeling. The whole information has a different significance. It should be both the emotional and the intellectual.’ For this reason, at the performance of ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ there was a board standing at the entrance to the performance space, displaying a list of the tyrannical punishments inflicted on Iranians for what are to Western citizen menial offences, if offences at all. Teatro di Nascosto allows the intellectual to fuel the instinct, and vice versa.

In the performance, the six of them including Annet told both the stories I had heard in the rehearsal and others I had not heard. They danced, both like they were in Iran and then as if they weren’t. They cried at times, and laughed, played footage and read aloud. They charted patches of the demonstration; they acted, and spoke to us as themselves. It was a patchwork of stories and ideas and emotions and information designed to make the audience sense what had been felt that day and is being felt every day since and many before.

Some Iranians who came to see the production described their own actions as masochistic. A couple of them were in tears as they relived their own experience of the 2009 protests in reflection to what was on stage. Watching Annet and the group brought back the thoughts of the people they knew two years ago and what has happened to them since. People they had studied with, eaten with, danced with, slept with, marched with. One of them said that he felt guilty and like a coward that he was not back there in the protest, smelling the flames and seeing the blood.   

A few of them recognised aspects of themselves and their own stories and found it difficult to watch it being performed in front of them and in front of complete strangers. Many of them found the performance impressive but were disappointed that more people didn’t attend. ‘Everyone should see this,’ they said. 
As noted above, the power of the production relies on the extent to which the audience believes in and invests in it. Some had criticisms, mainly on the grounds of authenticity. Teatro di Nascosto answer that they are retelling stories, not recreating reality, and count on their audience making this distinction, allowing for a margin of error.

But how much of an effect did it have on the rest of the audience? Watching the performance, I was impressed, but I was not as engaged or as affected as I had been in the rehearsal. Indeed, it is for this reason that this article is based around that one rehearsal and not the performance. I would recommend everyone to go to a rehearsal, more than a performance. Or I would urge the group to make their performances yet more inclusive, more direct, and more visceral, as the rehearsal has been for me.

I will never forget the rehearsal. Maybe many of the audience will never forget the performance. How much of a success is that? ‘I don’t think I can change the world,’ Annet says, ‘but I cannot do nothing.’ She believes that where she is now in her life she is at her strongest on the stage and spreading this message through theatre. However this does not mean she works only through theatre. She writes diaries when she goes to countries inflicted with war and poverty, living and working with the locals there, and the diaries are then publicised and circulated. She attempts to involve politicians as much as possible, securing the Charter of Volterra (2008), which looked to improve the treatment of refugees in Europe, signed by 30 politicians from across the continent. She also mentions the possibility of a film, perhaps the most effective way of reaching large amounts of people. 

Annet says that many who see the productions of Teatro di Nascosto do want to find out how they can help. When performing ‘Don’t Forget Us’ (a collection of monologues and songs from Baghdad, Kurdistan, Palestine, Iran, Turkey and Argentina, from and about the people she has met, known and loved) to schools in Italy, pupils would come up to her afterwards asking what they could do.

‘I have to give them a little answer for what they can do in their life. Not a big thing - they are going to school or they are students, or they go to university - but I tell them always if they were touched by what they heard or if we teach them something, to tell immediately at home what happened to them, so that the parents can also be involved. And then I speak a little about Amnesty International or even if you see some lonely foreigner sitting somewhere, maybe just say ‘hello’ and what it can mean for someone who is alone and doesn’t speak the language if someone smiles and just says ‘hello’ … so it is the very little things I think I can do.’ It is in remembering and retelling where the success lies.

Sitting down with one of the actresses, Arabella, in a London café, I ask why she is with Teatro di Nascosto? ‘It’s about an awareness,’ she says. ‘It’s about meetings, and people, and human connection. For example, after having been part of ‘Incontri Meetings’, a series of meetings, performances, concerts, conferences, film screenings and exhibitions in October 2011, in which ‘Iran: Forgotten Stories’ was performed again as was ‘Voices of Baghdad’, (Teatro di Nascosto’s recent production telling true stories of the people of Iraq) by four young Iraqi actors beside Annet, Iraq is no longer just a name, or space on the map, or collection of news clips and headlines. Now Iraq is Ali, Mostafa, Foaad and Yasir, the four Iraqi actors who we trained with, lived with. There is a connection built there which leads to a greater feeling, closeness, awareness and appreciation for the country and its people.

‘If Teatro di Nascosto’s productions are able to offer this to our audiences, even just slightly, if they are now just on the way to seeing these places differently, then we have achieved something. These are real places with real people and that often doesn’t come across.’

Annet says a similar thing. ‘I try to make the people live for a moment and hoping - because I cannot tell them to change but hoping - that it will make a little, little seed inside of them a thinking or a feeling that the word ‘refugee’ has a significance or the world ‘oppression’ becomes concrete, like something of your life for a moment. I know it is very important the sharing. Also because in our culture the real sharing, the sharing of real emotions, of pain, of happiness, is very difficult to happen between people. It’s a kind of culture where you are so full of information and there is very little education about sharing life, about sharing emotions, about sharing what you really are. I know that when I do this theatre I make a road to come to this sharing.’
‘It’s a medium of communication,’ Arabella says.  ‘It enables understanding; spreading stories in this way is an appeal from one set of people to another for care and for demonstrating (even if only by listening) solidarity, as they struggle to defend their human rights. Theatre reportage works to open a channel of access between different cultures, societies, worlds – Annet working between cultures has a lot to teach the actors – from all over the world – about how to make the stories understandable to the different audiences. It finds the common interests and joys: it’s not only drama, but also the happiness of family, of the home, of parties.’

The road to sharing that Annet mentions is a road of empathy, not necessarily comprehension, and that in itself is a road of hope to those who are in need of it most. As Arabella says ‘a value is given to the lives of the people in difficulty by putting it on stage and by giving it an audience: the knowledge that someone outside my situation is listening, is like a lifeline to a world outside the one of oppression, imprisonment, conflict – of hope, reason to survive.’  

Bertie Digby Alexander
London 2013

For more information on Teatro di Noscoto please visit www.teatrodinascosto.com